The Evolution of the Rolex Explorer: 5 Iconic Models That Defined a Legend

The Rolex Explorer was born from one of humanity’s greatest achievements: the first successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953. On May 29 of that year, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the roof of the world, marking a defining moment in human exploration. On their wrists, a steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 6098 accompanied them, silently witnessing history. These watches, supplied by Rolex not as gifts but as tools of endurance, were returned to the manufacture for testing after the expedition, proof of performance at the planet’s highest point.

Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay | Courtesy of @NationalGeographics

From that remarkable feat came the idea of a watch dedicated to explorers and pioneers: the Rolex Explorer. The early references, particularly the 6098 “Monoblocco” in stainless steel, embody the genesis of this spirit. This model, admired for its exceptional case condition and distinctive “Oyster Case” engraving on the outer back, presents a pristine white dial with applied steel indexes and hands. It is a timepiece that bridges the transition between the classic Oyster Perpetual and what would become the Explorer itself, the so-called “pre-Explorer,” a watch of both elegance and adventure.

Soon after, Rolex introduced further evolutions, most notably the reference 6610. This model refined the design with a slimmer three-piece waterproof case, a screw-down crown and case back, and the new Calibre 1030 movement that replaced the earlier “bubble-back” mechanism. The dial evolved into a darker, more technical aesthetic, often in the coveted “gilt” finish, featuring a “Chapter Ring” and, in some extraordinary examples, a warm tropical brown patina that developed naturally over time. These subtle color shifts, known among collectors as “Tropical,” are now cherished for their unique beauty and individuality.

Rolex ref. 6610 Explorer

Among the lesser-seen variations of this period is the fascinating reference 5504. Produced in limited numbers, it featured a waterproof Oyster case and the rare “Honeycomb” dial, a finely textured surface that gives extraordinary depth to the design. It retained the classic Explorer layout with applied steel numerals at 3-6-9 and “Dagha” hands, a rare configuration that adds to its mystique and desirability. Each of these early references reflects a distinct chapter in the Explorer’s journey, where function and form merged into timeless simplicity.

Rolex Ref. 5504 Explorer | Courtesy @MasterUnique

Then came the reference 1016, perhaps the most iconic and enduring Explorer ever produced. Introduced in the early 1960s, it carried a 36 mm stainless steel waterproof case, screw-down crown, and the familiar Oyster bracelet. The earliest 1016 examples displayed a magnificent “Gilt” dial with gold lettering and “Chapter Ring” detail, often featuring the subtle mark above six o’clock known as the “Exclamation Point.” The tritium-filled Mercedes hands and hour markers ensured legibility in the harshest conditions, embodying the Explorer’s mission as an instrument for adventure.

Rolex Ref. 1016 Explorer

Rolex Ref. 1016 Explorer

Over the decades, the 1016 remained faithful to its origins while evolving in detail, from radium to tritium luminescence (“SWISS” to “T<25” dials) and through movement upgrades, from the Calibre 1560 to the 1570. Its longevity in production, from 1963 to 1989, speaks to its perfection in both aesthetics and purpose.

Through each reference, from the early 6098 “Monoblocco” to the rare 5504 and the legendary 1016, the Explorer tells the story of human perseverance and horological evolution. It is not merely a watch but a companion to those who seek to go further, to climb higher, and to discover more.

At Bernardini Milano, we celebrate the Explorer as both a technical marvel and a symbol of endurance, a masterpiece that connects the pioneering spirit of mountaineers with the refined taste of collectors. Every reference, every dial variation, and every patina reminds us that exploration is not only about conquering mountains but also about the timeless pursuit of perfection.